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Why Bar Parisette Is Redefining the French Bistro Menu in Logan Square
Located at 2829 W Armitage Ave in the heart of Chicago’s Logan Square, Bar Parisette has quickly established itself as more than just a neighborhood wine bar. It represents a shift in how French cuisine is presented to a modern audience. Under the leadership of proprietor Matt Sussman—known for the alpine-inspired Table, Donkey and Stick—and Executive Chef Madalyn Durrant, the restaurant operates as a "nouveau bistro." This philosophy prioritizes high-quality ingredients and technical precision while maintaining an approachable, unpretentious atmosphere that shuns the stuffiness often associated with traditional French dining.
The menu at Bar Parisette is a seasonal, living document that reflects Chef Durrant’s deep connection to French culinary culture, specifically the lesser-known regions like Franche-Comté and Jura. For diners seeking to understand the allure of this Logan Square gem, a deep dive into its menu reveals why it has become a focal point for both local foodies and industry professionals.
The Culinary Philosophy: What Is a Nouveau Bistro?
To understand the Bar Parisette menu, one must first grasp the concept of the "nouveau bistro." In Paris, the movement emerged as a response to expensive, Michelin-starred establishments, offering diners the same level of ingredient sourcing and technical skill but in a casual setting with fair pricing.
At Bar Parisette, this manifests in a menu that is lighter and more vegetable-forward than the heavy, cream-laden French fare typically found in the Midwest. Chef Durrant utilizes her background—having studied French from a young age and traveled extensively through the country—to bring authenticity that feels fresh rather than museum-like. The focus is on "intentional" dining: food that rewards those who take their time to savor the nuances of a sauce or the specific terroir of a wine pairing.
The Dinner Menu: A Sophisticated Breakdown
The dinner menu is cleverly categorized into sections that encourage sharing and exploration: Petit (small snacks), Cold, Hot, Bistro (larger plates), and Sweet. This structure allows for a versatile dining experience, whether you are stopping in for a quick glass of Gamay and a snack or committing to a multi-course celebration.
Petit: The Art of the Opening Act
The "Petit" section is designed to whet the appetite. The Rye Milk Bread is a standout starter, offering a dense yet soft crumb that serves as the perfect vessel for the accompanying butter. For those who enjoy classic French snacks with a twist, the Pimento Cheese Gougères are essential. Traditional gougères are airy cheese puffs, but Bar Parisette’s version incorporates pimento cheese and a side of cornichon, blending Southern American comfort with Burgundian technique.
In our experience, the Pommes Frites with Aïoli are among the best in Chicago. They are consistently crisp, well-seasoned, and served with a house-made aïoli that strikes the right balance of garlic and acidity. For a lighter start, the Almonds with Brown Butter and Bay offer a sophisticated take on a bar snack, where the aromatic bay leaf elevates the richness of the butter.
Cold Plates: Precision and Freshness
This section showcases Chef Durrant’s ability to balance rich fats with bright acids. The Chicken Liver Mousse is perhaps the most talked-about item on the cold menu. Topped with a vibrant Cassis Aspic and served with toasted brioche, the mousse is exceptionally smooth. The tartness of the blackcurrant jelly cuts through the decadence of the liver, preventing it from feeling overly heavy.
The Beet Salad is another masterclass in texture. Instead of large, clunky chunks, the beets are treated with care and paired with horseradish, black lentils, and lime. The horseradish provides a necessary "kick," while the lentils add an earthy crunch that contrasts with the tender beets.
For seafood lovers, the Trout Carpaccio utilizes sea buckthorn and leche de tigre—a nod to the global influences found in modern Parisian bistros. The result is a dish that is bracingly fresh and visually stunning, highlighting the restaurant's commitment to lighter, more vibrant fare.
Hot Plates: Innovation and Technique
The "Hot" section is where the kitchen’s creativity truly shines. The Charred Cabbage is a revelation for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike. It is served with a sunflower tahini and apple molasses, topped with dill. The cabbage is cooked until the edges are caramelized and smoky, while the tahini provides a creamy, nutty base that rivals any meat-based dish in terms of satisfaction.
A more playful addition is the Fish Nuggets, served with a "triple pickle sauce" and "herb-fetti." This dish epitomizes the "approachable" side of the menu—it’s nostalgic and fun but executed with high-quality fish and a sophisticated sauce that far exceeds expectations of a standard bar snack.
Pasta enthusiasts will find solace in the Black Truffle Rigatoni. While many restaurants overdo truffle oil, Bar Parisette uses it judiciously, combining it with poppy seeds and parmesan for a dish that is aromatic without being overwhelming.
Bistro Plates: The Heart of the Meal
The "Bistro" section contains the heaviest hitters. The Steak Frites is a quintessential bistro dish, and here it is served with a mustard peppercorn cream that is silkier than the traditional au poivre. For those looking for a larger cut, the Slagel Farms Coulotte features beef from a renowned local producer, served with beurre rouge and charred chicory.
The Moules Frites "Cafe de Paris" offers a unique twist on the classic mussels and fries, incorporating coconut and curry. This infusion of flavors reflects the multicultural reality of modern France, moving beyond the traditional white wine and garlic preparation.
Perhaps the most surprising "star" of a French bistro menu is the Veggie Burger. Chef Durrant has created a proprietary blend of grains, beans, and dry-roasted root vegetables. The patty is fried like a falafel to ensure it remains crispy, then smashed on the flat-top. In a city full of burgers, this house-made vegetarian option stands out for its texture and depth of umami, often ordered by non-vegetarians who have heard the hype.
Sweet: The Grand Finale
No French meal is complete without dessert, and the Big Macaron is the signature here. It is an oversized version of the classic pastry, filled with almond crème, passionfruit, and sesame brittle. The passionfruit provides a sharp, tropical acidity that prevents the almond crème from being too sweet.
Another highlight is the Soft Serve, which often features seasonal flavors like salted vanilla or roasted strawberry. For a more traditional finish, the Chocolate Mousse with salted caramel and hazelnut praline offers a rich, textural experience that satisfies the deepest chocolate cravings.
Happy Hour: Exceptional Value in Logan Square
One of the most compelling reasons to visit Bar Parisette is their Happy Hour program. While many restaurants offer minor discounts, Bar Parisette uses Happy Hour to drive community engagement and showcase their "quality for the price" philosophy.
- Monday Night: The "All-Night Happy Hour" is a favorite among hospitality industry workers and locals.
- Wednesday through Friday: 5:00 PM – 6:30 PM.
The Happy Hour menu typically includes $2 East Coast Oysters, which are fresh and expertly shucked. For a more substantial snack, the Cheeseburger with Frites is offered at a significant discount (often around $15). The drink specials are equally impressive, featuring $8 House Wine (Red, White, or Rosé), $8 Classic Martinis, and the $10 Parisette Spritz.
The "Shake-Frites" combo—a petite vanilla soft serve served with a side of hot fries—is a cult favorite during this time, offering the ultimate salty-sweet indulgence for just $8.
The Weekend Brunch: A New Tradition
Brunch at Bar Parisette avoids the clichés of endless eggs Benedict. Instead, it focuses on high-quality pastries and unique "plates."
Pastries and Starters
The Orange Roll with cream cheese icing and the Canelé de Bordeaux (featuring a rum custard center) are perfect for those starting with something sweet. The Espresso Granola served with milk or yogurt is a lighter, sophisticated option for the health-conscious diner.
Signature Brunch Plates
The Croque Mademoiselle is a standout, replacing the traditional ham with a rich mushroom duxelles, topped with a sunny egg, gruyère, and mornay sauce. It is served with crispy breakfast potatoes that have been seasoned to perfection.
For those seeking a more traditional French breakfast experience, the Grand Déjeuner (when available) is a lavish spread of bread, cheeses, jams, eggs, and cured fish, designed to be enjoyed slowly over conversation and coffee.
The Beverage Program: Low Markups, High Quality
Proprietor Matt Sussman’s philosophy on wine is a major draw for enthusiasts. Unlike most Chicago restaurants that apply a standard 3x or 4x markup on wine bottles, Bar Parisette prices many of its bottles closer to retail rates. This makes it one of the best places in the city to drink high-end wine without the prohibitive cost.
The Bottle List
The list focuses on French producers, with a strong emphasis on the Jura and Savoie regions, as well as grower Champagnes. Most bottles are priced under $100, which is an exceptional value for the quality provided. For the adventurous, the "Grab Bag" cooler behind the host stand contains unique, one-off bottles that diners can choose at random, adding an element of surprise to the meal.
Cocktails
The cocktail program is curated and creative. Le Petit Prince is the house signature, utilizing Citadelle Cornichon Gin, pickle brine, and dry vermouth. It is a savory, bracing drink that pairs perfectly with the charcuterie and oysters on the menu. The Perfect Martini, featuring both sweet and dry vermouth, is another example of the bar’s commitment to classic techniques with subtle, elevated twists.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
What is the best dish for a first-time visitor?
The Chicken Liver Mousse and the Steak Frites are the quintessential Bar Parisette experiences. If you are a vegetarian, the Veggie Burger is a non-negotiable order.
Does Bar Parisette take reservations?
Yes, reservations are recommended, especially on weekends and during Happy Hour. However, the restaurant intentionally keeps space for walk-ins to maintain its identity as a neighborhood hangout.
Are there gluten-free options available?
Yes. The staff is well-versed in dietary restrictions. The fries are prepared in a dedicated fryer, and several dishes like the Trout Carpaccio and Steak Tartare are naturally gluten-free or can be modified. The veggie burger patty itself is gluten-free, though you should ask for it without the bun or with a substitute.
Is there outdoor seating?
Yes, Bar Parisette features a 400-square-foot sidewalk patio that is very popular during the warmer months in Chicago. It is also dog-friendly.
What is the parking situation?
There is paid street parking along Armitage Avenue. Additionally, free or permit parking can often be found in the surrounding residential streets of Logan Square, though it may require a short walk.
How does the wine pricing work?
The restaurant applies a lower markup than most establishments, aiming for prices that feel closer to a retail shop. This encourages diners to order by the bottle rather than just by the glass.
Conclusion: Why the Bar Parisette Menu Matters
Bar Parisette succeeds because it understands its audience. Logan Square residents appreciate quality, but they also value authenticity and fair pricing. By stripping away the pretension of French dining and focusing on exceptional ingredients, technical skill, and a revolutionary wine-pricing model, Bar Parisette has created a menu that feels essential.
Whether you are there for a $2 oyster and a martini during Happy Hour or a full-course dinner featuring Charred Cabbage and Slagel Farms beef, the experience is consistently intentional. It is a testament to the fact that a "neighborhood bar" can also be one of the most sophisticated dining destinations in the city. Chef Madalyn Durrant’s vegetable-forward, French-inspired vision has not only filled a gap in the local culinary landscape but has set a new standard for what a modern bistro can be.